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Две стороны одной медали города Неаполь

11 мая

На юге Италии главным городом является Неаполь. Это третий по величине город в стране находится в провинции Кампания, расположенный у подножья легендарного Везувия, на северном берегу Неаполитанского залива. Неаполь представляет собой важный морской порт и сам расположен своеобразным греческим амфитеатром на прибрежных холмах, прекрасно сохранив свою античную планировку и раскрывая свои широкие панорамы.

Но въезжая в этот город,  мы сразу оказываемся в эпицентре беспорядочного и хаотичного движения на дорогах. Водители беспрерывно сигналят и выкрикивают мелодичные ругательства вслед проносящимся мимо на большой скорости мотороллерам, которые абсолютно небрежно царапают бока автомобилей и цепляют их зеркала! Здесь все ведут себя крайне несдержанно и неаккуратно. Эта нервозность передается и нам! Очень сложно, оказывается, найти нужную улицу и отель, но ещё сложнее - стоять в бесконечных пробках. С первых секунд город производит отталкивающее и неприятное впечатление, но мы решаем не спешить с выводами…

 

Едва добравшись к гостинице и с трудом припарковав автомобиль, где машины, кажется, стоят прямо друг на друге в тисках узких улочек, мы заходим в гостинцу и после недолгих формальностей на рецепции поднимаемся в нашу комнату небольшого арт-отеля на Corso Umberto I.

 

В Esedra Sui tHotel всего 12 комнат и каждая обозначена знаком зодиака. Нам выпадает дверь под номером 401 на четвертом этаже с изображением козерога. Почему-то жалею, что не со знаком Близнеца. За нашей дверью - крохотная, почти игрушечная комнатка, оформленная с таким лаконичным вкусом, что моё эстетское начало начинает играть и пениться, словно откупоренная бутылка шампанского! Кровать с бордовым  балдахином, свисающим тяжелыми складками с потолка над ней, занимает почти всю комнату. У изголовья на фреске застыли в причудливых позах и с раскрытыми книгами в пухлых руках белокурые ангелы. А подножье кровати оканчивается у воздушного балкончика с открытой кованой решеткой, зависающего прямо над оживленной улицей Неаполя…

Поднимаю тяжелое жалюзи и, в комнату вместе с дневным светом врывается город со всеми его манящими звуками и запахами! Красивое зеркало, полки, ниша для одежды – вот, собственно, и весь интерьер, но именно эта изысканная простота и есть в моем понимании совершенство гостиничного номера!

Затем, оставив свои вещи, мы отправляемся лично знакомиться с Неаполем! И теперь уже понимаем, что в самом противоречивом и темпераментном городе Италии жизнь протекает более шумно и ярко, чем в остальных городах.

Это квинтэссенция Италии, полная ярких, иногда карикатурных, образов. Множество местных жительниц очень похожи на созданный Софи Лорен образ итальянки. Или это только мне так кажется? Впрочем, нам говорили, что за ощущением подлинного итальянского духа сюда приезжают даже итальянцы из северных регионов страны. Туристов привлекают солнечный климат, исторические памятники и кулинарные традиции – только здесь можно попробовать настоящую традиционную пиццу!

Запах моря и ощущение простора своенравного города сквозит даже в узких улочках между каменных стен… И мы, интуитивно чувствуя маршрут, направляемся к набережной.

 

Размякший под солнцем таксист рассказывает нам, что непременно нужно подняться на холм Вомеро, в крепость Сант-Эльмо. Но после наших вопросов о том, где можно вкусно поесть, доставляет нас на набережную с живописным портом и рыбными ресторанчиками, разноцветными лодками и катерами. Он лично проводит нас к таверне у самой воды. Здесь мы и собираемся пообедать. Нас принимают, как дома и ты чувствуешь себя долгожданным гостем в заботливой суете официантов вокруг нас! Конечно же, мы заказываем пасту с морепродуктами и выбираем себе из предоставленных на большом блюде свежих рыбин те, которые хотим непременно попробовать. Их готовят специально для нас!

 

После прекрасного обеда мы отправляемся на осмотр ближайшей крепости, со стен которой открываются захватывающие дух виды на город и море. Сам замок производит сильнейшее впечатление – могучий и крепкий, стены неприступные и головокружительно высокие. Вообще, все неаполитанские замки внушают благоговейный страх, и ты невольно визуализируешь легенды из средневековья о настоящих рыцарях!

Если идти от Кастель-Нуово вдоль набережной на запад, можно дойти до третьей неаполитанской крепости Кастель делль Ово. С названием этого замка связана интересная легенда. Якобы поэт Виргилий, считавшийся великим мистиком и магом, вложил в специальную амфору заколдованное яйцо. Саму амфору поместил в железную клетку, а над ней возвели сам замок. По предсказанию Вергилия и замок, и город не будут разрушены, пока яйцо находится в безопасности и не разобьется! Эта версия именно для таких романтиков, как я, но как здесь не стать романтиком, если набережная невероятно красивая, а вид на залив и Везувий еще лучше!

 

Дальше мы снова ныряем в каменные стены города, прячась от палящего солнца, и просто бесцельно бродим по улицам, даже не заглядывая в карту, позволяя Неаполю раскрыться для нас по собственному усмотрению.

 

Кварталы и площади мелькают, словно пестрые кадры в слайд-шоу, и ты понемногу начинаешь адаптироваться к хаотичному дорожному трафику, к гирляндам бельевых веревок с одеждой, словно паутина опутывающих старинные жилые здания, к неаполитанской архитектуре, которая проявляет свой причудливый характер. Например, сооружение, напоминающее крепость, на самом деле вдруг оказывается церковью Сан-Доменико-Маджоре! И конечно, принимаешь непривычный ритм и темперамент местных жителей, сливаясь с общей массой с каким-то первозданным наслаждением и азартом.

 

Район Санита показался самым аутентичным, если иметь в виду обыденную неаполитанскую жизнь в истинных ее проявлениях. Одно из таких типичных черт города – обилие уличной торговли. Корсо Умберто на протяжении нескольких сот метров, начиная от площади Гарибальди, и все прилегающие к ней кварталы с утра до сиесты просто превращаются в бесконечную вереницу торговых лавочек.

Старейшей частью города являются три параллельные улицы, идущие с востока на запад и ведущие свою историю еще с римских времен. Верхняя, дальняя от моря, самая короткая – Страда-делль-Антикалья. Арки, переброшенные через нее остались еще с римских времен.

Самое интересное – это дождаться темноты! Ночной город всегда проявляется иначе, открывает свою суть более полноценно. Это можно сравнить с послевкусием дорогого коньяка или вина, который раскрывается не сразу и который оценить по достоинству могут лишь настоящие ценители и знатоки!

 

Вместе со сгущающимися сумерками в воздухе появляется едва уловимое предчувствие опасности, которое влечет тебя в самую глубину длинных бесконечных улиц с высокими и массивными стенами мрачных неприветливых домов. Криминальный город  готовится к ночи и плотно закрывает все свои двери для непрошеных гостей. Тишину в опустевших улочках нарушают лишь проносящиеся мимо на дикой скорости мотороллеры.

Иногда их фары на секунду выхватывают из темноты лица подростков, которые жмурятся, словно бледные вампиры, в глубоких подворотнях…

 

Мы проходим опустевшие улицы, которые часто прерываются небольшими площадями с порталами церквей, похожими на входы в другое измерение. Желтый тусклый свет фонарей таинственно заливает высокие колонны и строгие арки старинных зданий и возникает чувство, будто все это утопает в безмолвной глубине времени… будто мы находимся под тоннами воды и бездыханно идем сквозь замершие тени замшелых камней по самому дну мертвого города. Все происходит, словно в режиме замедленного воспроизведения.

 

Вообще, я заметила, что Неаполю свойственно сочетать неистовую религиозность со своеобразным культом смерти. Это как две стороны одной и той же медали! И сам город имеет тоже две контрастные стороны. Мы с любопытством рассматриваем в специальных нишах на стенах разных домов красивые статуэтки с горящими лампадками. Это места поклонения Деве Марии и местным святым - неотъемлемая часть неаполитанских улиц. Но религиозный культ здесь смешан с криминальным, поскольку многие ниши чернеют пустотой и за разбитыми стеклами витрин можно разглядеть только напоминание о том, что прежде здесь была фигурка святой.

 

Мы проходим небольшие ресторанчики, в которых готовят пиццу на открытом огне и неаполитанская музыка смешивается с её дразнящим ароматом. Попадаем на площади, где собирается молодежь и словно под каким-то странным гипнозом, ритуально танцует и поёт под аккомпанемент призывно-ритмичных барабанов. В воздухе отчетливо пахнет драпом, поэтому мы ненадолго становимся лишь случайными и отдаленными свидетелями этой ночной вакханалии. А затем незамеченные, молча, продолжаем свою прогулку, наугад сворачивая в новые улочки.

 

Я начинаю влюбляться в Неаполь, ведь он, резко и безапелляционно вырван из контекста моих литературных и киношных аллюзий, лишен личностных штампов.

Он не оправдывает моих ожиданий, потому что их и не было изначально – я позволила этому городу быть просто собой, жить своей реальной жизнью не напоказ! Той жизнью, которую  чрезвычайно интересно наблюдать и проживать собственные, а не чужие истории и ощущения!

Здесь всё без прикрас и фальши. Мрачный и строгий Неаполь не пытается показать себя в лучшем свете и не заискивает перед туристами. Хочешь – принимай со всеми достоинствами и недостатками.

Да, Неаполь некоторые находят утомительным, но есть в нем и очарование, умение наслаждаться жизнью. Город, утопающий в мусоре и граффити теперь мне нравится больше, чем открыточный туристический Рим. Именно здесь Хулио Кортасар мог бы придумать свой рассказ «Граффити» и мне даже неоднократно казалось, что я вижу на одной из стен до мурашек любимую и знакомую надпись черным мелом: «Мне тоже больно…»



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